In July 2021, after exploring the coastal beauty of the balkans, traversing the entirety of Albania, and delving into the northern landscapes of Montenegro, we found ourselves waking up in Sarajevo, Bosnia with an extraordinary destination on our itinerary—Lukomir. Tucked away on the Bjelasnica mountain, perched precariously on the edge of Rakitnica Canyon, the second deepest canyon in Europe (preceded only by the nearby Tara Canyon), Lukomir stands as a testament to the enduring power of tradition and time, resisting the waves of modernization and technological advancement. In this isolated village, it feels as though time has indeed stood still for centuries; the only hint of modernity, if you could call it that, being their ‘modern’ 90’s cars—yes, that’s a joke, I think.
Lukomir is not just any village; it’s the highest and most isolated settlement in the entire country. So hopefully that gives you an idea on just how secluded this place was. And, although rewarding, the journey definitely wasn’t a smooth ride.
The Journey there…
We departed a 40ºc Sarajevo with a 1h45min journey in mind. At midday we drove away leaving the quintessentially Balkan cityscape behind us and through roads aligned with rolling hills that grew peaks and morphed into the rocky green mountains in which this region of the country is famous for.
You ascend into where you can imagine gets a good amount of snow during the winter because you start seeing ski lifts, slope markings, and buildings that look like they survive the cold a little more. In fact, higher up you’d reach the historic site of the 1984 Sarajevo olympics. You continue up and reach the ski towns new development area, boasting a big and new hotel Nomad (ironic). Take in the architecture because this is the last building with more than 2 floors you’ll see for a while. Continuing along the solitary road, you soon find yourself at a plateau, a pass that feels like a step back in time. The narrow roads, recently paved with fresh concrete, wind their way through and around villages that gradually diminish in size.
Once you reach the point labeled Bjelašnica (put za Lukomir) on Google Maps, ensure you turn right. Taking the left turn leads you into other villages, while the right turn wraps around the mountain, serving as Lukomir’s backdrop and represents the sole route into Lukomir from this direction. Soon, the road transitions from a (somewhat) proper road into what appears to be the result of a desire path to Lukomir.
Navigating these seemingly straightforward paths turned out to be a bumpy and jarring experience. The car bounced and jolted in every direction. My head bumped against the roof so many times that it felt as though the car was trying to knock some sense into me. It was almost as if it was a warning, urging us to turn back before we risked bursting a tire lol.
{In the end, we managed not to burst a tire, but we were warned that the road should only be driven on with a car that can handle the conditions. However, lacking an SUV, and with only one chance to visit the town, we put our rented sedan to the test. – in all seriousness if I were to do the drive again although I know that a more simple car can handle the journey, i’d opt for something more comfortable}
Clearly, the condition of the road hadn’t been factored into Google’s route calculation. Consequently, we had to drive slowly and cautiously, adding roughly 25 minutes to our journey. While it wasn’t a significant delay and, in hindsight, better than it could have been, my dad is a confident driver so he managed the road well. However, I can imagine that for someone less surefooted on rough roads, the impact on the driving time could have been much greater.
We arrived in one piece and parked at the entrance of the town. Instantly, I felt like I was in a fairytale. Eager to stretch my legs and inhale air free of petrol fumes, I swung the door open—perhaps a bit too enthusiastically, as my door collided with the wire fence enclosing the lot. fun fact: despite all the challenges we faced on our trip, opening the back door in Lukomir was the only damage inflicted upon the car. Still, I refused to let this minor scratch dampen my spirits. I was in Lukomir, filled with excitement and disbelief that I was standing in a place I had previously only seen in photos.
Im always ready to explore, I almost forget about every necessity when i’m ready for adventure. I forget to drink, to eat, TO RELAX! I could forget breakfast and start the day earlier, or miss lunch and explore deeper into where I am. Although exciting, I know I need to pace myself a little. Reluctanctly I agree to sit down and get a ‘quick’ lunch before we set off on foot. To my knowledge (and when we were there) there was one place serving food and it was the very start of the town, a small cafe specialising in local delicious dishes. However, it seems on google maps perhaps there are now a few more guesthouses popping up throughout the town. I’ll assume there has been an influx of people visiting nowadays, and I’d give it another couple of years before GAIL’s open up a branch.
Stomach full and urge to move even more full, I leap out the restaurant gate and begin walking down the one road through town.
Exploring the town…
Seeing the centuries-old stone houses, with idyllic hills and rolling mountains behind them, was nothing short of… wow. It felt as if nature had taken over; the grass had overgrown onto the roads, and it seemed like the hills were reclaiming their materials back from the houses. Originally built with cherrywood shingles, now patched with metal in places, the huts looked like they were sinking into the ground. The streets were rather desolate, as locals hid from the sun indoors, and local cattle and sheep also sheltered in the shade on the other side of the wall.
Life is slow here. I’m not sure if anyone in this town even owns a clock, and frankly, I doubt they need one. The sun’s gentle journey across the sky serves as their time guide, rising above one hill and setting behind another. The locals spend their days much like their ancestors did, in the very same houses that have stood for generations, embracing the simplicity of life.
In a world where consumerism and the hustle of modernity often dominate, it’s easy to fall into the trap of busy schedules and endless to-dos. I understand the allure of that lifestyle, but as someone who finds it challenging to relax, I sometimes find myself envious of places like this, where slowing down isn’t necessarily a choice but a way of life. Don’t get me wrong; I acknowledge that the local way of life involves more than what I, a guy from London, might do here but I enjoyed the feeling of serenity and my rare ‘no need to rush’ feeling as I wondered through the town.
The more you walked the more the end of the road opened up revealing a painting-like view of green and more green rising from a steep drop, this was Rakitnica Canyon. We climbed the mini hill and on the way up spotted locals doing the same, this must be normal to them, just their backyard view, but to me, it was so far from ‘familiar’.
as if I were on pride rock in lion king, I stood out and stared into the valley. I turned around (just as the ‘circle of life’ reaches its chorus) and there it was… the town of Lukomir in its picture perfect position just as I had seen it in all those pictures online.
What a beautiful place in the world. I stood in awe and enjoyed the moment a little longer than I normally do, and sat just above a lady doing the same (cover photo).
In that Moment, I knew the journey, the day, the trip was all worth it. I felt accomplished as I normally do when I tick another destination off the bucket list, as one would, but it feels so enormous to me, like one of those ‘I genuinely cannot believe I’m here’ moments. The journey was tough but the destination made it all worth it. I do have to emphasise though: it’s secluded! There is nothing else near it. In fact, it is so far away from anything else it is one of the only villages in the region that the Serbians didn’t attack in the 90’s Yugoslav war. However, most believe that it was rather due to its beauty and tradition instead of its isolation that saved it from demolishen. The name Lukomir literally (apparently) translates to ‘beautiful view’ so clearly the gorgeous landscape has been appreciated since its early days, maybe this is why the Serbians left it alone? Either way, i’m glad it survived because this is definitely on my list of top beautiful settlements iv’e visited on Earth. I could have sat in tranquility a little longer but as all good things sadly do, it came to an end. soon it was time we departed onto our next destination so back down we went. And I got a final glimpse on every thing I could.
On the way back up to the car we passed a house with 2 older women sitting outside of it with a pile of hand-knitted items in-front of them. Despite it being the peak of summer and as someone who wears shorts during British winter, I had a strange urge to buy something thick and made of wool. So I chose these gorgeous blue mittens. We didn’t speak the same language but a quick exchange of smiles and cash and I now have a permanent reminder of a treasured place. I still have these mittens and I haven’t worn them once but I dont care, I’m happy I chose memory over logic that day because impractical or not, I smile everytime I see them and I’m reminded of that same happiness I felt sitting on that hill above the town.
The journey back…
We hopped back in the car and drove back up the road until we reached a fork and turned left (we came from the right). Again the road was bumpy and with no more data I couldn’t use google anymore to tell when the road conditions would improve. So slowly but surely we continued into the mountain pass.
Before we knew it, Lukomir was out of sight and there were no other sign of civilisation infront of us yet. We were quite literally in the middle of nowhere. The scenery didn’t change much. It remained as beautiful as it had always been but one thing did change, the state of the road we were driving on… and not for the better. Quickly what was already bumpy had become a concern and meant we were at even more risk of bursting a tire. And now being so far away from seemingly any civilisation, it would’ve been a worry. Like a sign from god we somehow come across a local man sitting on the side of the road, we roll up towards him and the look of his face told us all we needed to know. He looked at the car and grinned.
So now still with no directions and even less hope we continued our drive. In fact the road got so bad that my brother and I had to get out the car and run behind it to reduce weight. By this point it was the peak of the day’s heat, so running wasn’t easy nor was it comfortable. The condition of the road didn’t suit walking as much as it wasn’t made for driving on. Dodging every sharp boulder as if I was in subway surfers proved successful because at some point the rocks on the road became a little smaller and although still not smooth meant we could hop back in the car, praise the lord for AC, and drive a speed that actually creates a cool breeze… bliss.
Aswell as the road, the hills began to flatten slightly and In the distance we saw a young farmer walking his cattle. He looked maybe only a couple of years older than us, but what a contrasting life.
An hour later we reach concrete, and before we could stop and kiss the ground we found the nearest fountain and filled up with fuel. We take a breather as the dizziness from the bumpy ride settled down, and as we returned in the car on our way to Mostar I reflected back on the place I had just visited and already I missed it.
In the heart of Bosnia and Herzegovina, Lukomir not only calls for gorgeous views looking out from its simple homes window’s but also a beautiful scene looking into them. The journey to this remote village might be challenging, but the rewards it offers are immeasurable. With the help of kind hearted relaxed residents who welcome visitors with open arms it paints a portrait of a world untouched by the hurried pace of modern life. In an era where so many quaint places have lost their authenticity, Lukomir remains a beacon of authenticity and tranquility. And as I left this charming village, I carry with me not just memories of breathtaking landscapes but also a reminder that there are still places in the world where time moves slowly, and the heart beats with the rhythm of nature around it. Lukomir is a reminder of the beauty of simplicity and the joy of embracing the road less traveled, making it… one of Europe’s last hidden gems.
